How Vitamin C And Hyaluronic Acid Work Together
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There are good skincare combinations—like retinol with niacinamide and glycolic acid with salicylic acid.
But then there are skincare combos that pair so well—you will find them formulated together in one skincare product.
One such combo is vitamin C and hyaluronic acid. Let’s learn more about them—and how they can benefit your skin if used together.
Vitamin C: an introduction and how does it work on your skin
In human skin, among all the antioxidants, Vitamin C is the most abundant.
If we already have it, then why do we need to apply topical vitamin C?
According to a study, humans cannot synthesise vitamin C due to the absence of the enzyme L-glucose-gamma lactone oxidase.
So, even with high doses of vitamin C oral supplements, only a small part of the dosage will be active in the skin.
Thus, we rely on the topical application of vitamin C.
In topical applications of vitamin C, there are generally four derivatives.
Ascorbyl-6-palmitate and Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP) are stable forms of vitamin C, however, they may not effectively absorb within the skin.
L-ascorbic acid, which is considered to be the most biologically active form and is also the most researched—is an unstable molecule and does not penetrate the human skin as effectively as an active ingredient should.
Ethyl-l-ascorbic acid, a form of l-ascorbic acid, is the most stable, and effective, and is the most used vitamin C derivative in topical products.
It works as a potent antioxidant that protects skin from damage caused by sun exposure and other pollutants.
Moreover, vitamin C boosts collagen production, which helps in reducing the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines.
A study also found that vitamin C reduces melanin production, preventing hyperpigmentation and the dark spots caused by sun damage.
“Vitamin C increases the effectiveness of sunscreen, boosting your SPF.”
says Dr. Aseem, MD & DNB.
“It can help with pigmentation and acne-related skin problems,” he adds.
What is Hyaluronic Acid and how does it work?
Hyaluronic acid, also referred to as hyaluronan or hyaluronate, is a glycosaminoglycan that is found naturally in our body.
HA is a primary element that provides our skin structure and gives it a plump.
However, due to environmental damage, HA in our skin declines.That’s why HA is used in topical skincare products to further enhance the skin’s ability to produce more collagen and elastin and prevent any roughness or tightness—common skin concerns for individuals with dry or dehydrated skin.
According to a 2012 study, HA plays a key role in reducing the early signs of ageing such as fine lines and wrinkles.The study concluded that HA may slow down the intrinsic ageing process (ageing that occurs naturally) and provide hydration to the skin.
Can you use Hyaluronic Acid and Vitamin C together?
Yes, you can use vitamin C and hyaluronic acid together. They both complement each other—and do not cause any adverse effects.
In fact, the combination enhances the effectiveness of each other—hydrating, protecting and repairing the aged skin.
Furthermore, vitamin C can sometimes be irritating to the skin, especially if you have acne-prone skin. Using vitamin C with HA can help you mitigate those adverse effects.
What does the clinical study say about using Hyaluronic Acid with Vitamin C?
A 2021 study conducted to test the effectiveness of a formulation containing vitamin C and hyaluronic acid says the combination is effective in treating facial ageing.
The formulation contained vitamin C (10%), hyaluronic acid, biopeptides (rice and lupin), and Vichy volcanic mineralising water.
The trial was conducted on 47 individuals—out of which 36 individuals reported significant improvements in fine lines, wrinkles and the overall improvement in the skin’s texture.
Benefits of using vitamin C and hyaluronic acid together—in a nutshell
Based on clinical studies—the combination of vitamin C and hyaluronic acid -
- improves the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
- improves the overall texture of the skin
- helps increase skin elasticity and boosts collagen production
- treats dark spots and acne scars
- neutralises free radicals
Which goes first, vitamin C or hyaluronic acid?
Applying the skincare products in the right order can help you get the best out of your regime. The rule here is to apply skincare products based on their consistency: from thinnest to thickest (cleanser → toner → serum → moisturiser → sunscreen).
So the answer to the question ‘What to apply first, vitamin C or hyaluronic acid’ depends on the product.
Let’s take an example, if you have a moisturiser containing HA and you have a serum containing vitamin C, then you should definitely apply the serum first.
But, if you are using vitamin C and hyaluronic acid in the form of serum—that too different serums—you can use them separately—vitamin C serum in the day and HA at night.
References
1. Al-Niaimi, F., & Zhen Chiang, N. Y. (2017). Topical Vitamin C and the Skin: Mechanisms of Action and Clinical Applications. The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 10(7), 14-17. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5605218/
2. Iliopoulos, F., Sil, B. C., Moore, D. J., Lucas, R. A., & Lane, M. E. (2019). 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid: Characterisation and investigation of single solvent systems for delivery to the skin. International Journal of Pharmaceutics: X, 1. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ijpx.2019.100025
3. Papakonstantinou, E., Roth, M., & Karakiulakis, G. (2012). Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-Endocrinology, 4(3), 253-258. https://doi.org/10.4161/derm.21923
4. Escobar, S., Valois, A., Nielsen, M., Closs, B., & Kerob, D. (2021). Effectiveness of a formulation containing peptides and vitamin C in treating signs of facial ageing: Three clinical studies. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 43(2), 131-135. https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12665
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Retinol VS Hyaluronic Acid: Which one is better for treating acne, dark circles, fine lines and wrinkles
How are Retinol and Hyaluronic Acid different from each other? Retinol is widely regarded as the most effective anti-ageing topical treatment. A 2012 study highlighted Hyaluronic Acid as a key molecule in the ageing process. The study suggests that a low molecular weight variant of Hyaluronic Acid can effectively reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Thus, both Retinol and Hyaluronic Acid can be considered effective anti-ageing treatments. But is Hyaluronic Acid as potent as Retinol? Does HA possess the ability to penetrate the deeper layers of the skin and mitigate free radicals like Retinol does? No, HA works quite differently from Retinol. Let's go over the key differences between Retinol and Hyaluronic Acid to help you determine which is better suited for your specific skin concerns. 1. Hyaluronic Acid is primarily a humectant that hydrates and retains water in the skin. Retinol, a Vitamin A derivative, promotes cell renewal and boosts collagen and elastin production. A 2021 study shows that HA can immediately boost skin hydration, making the skin smooth and plump. Whereas, Retinol stimulates collagen and elastin production in the skin, enhancing blood flow. This helps Retinol counteract skin concerns like wrinkles, fine lines, and hyperpigmentation. 2. Hyaluronic Acid mostly works on the surface of your skin, whereas Retinol penetrates deeper into the skin. Hyaluronic Acid comes in 4 variants: raw form, hydrolyzed form, alkaline form, and cross-linked form. Raw and hydrolyzed forms have high molecular weight and are unable to penetrate deeper layers of your skin. Thus, it stays on the outer layer of your skin and delivers hydration where it's required. However, alkaline (sodium hyaluronate) and cross-linked forms have low molecular weight and can penetrate the deeper layers of skin. On the other hand, over-the-counter Retinol creams are available in various concentrations, for example, 0.1% to 2%. Regardless of the concentration, Retinol has low molecules that go deep beneath the epidermis (outer layer of skin) to the dermis. 3. Hyaluronic Acid is suitable for all skin types and can be used daily, while Retinol, typically used at night, requires gradual introduction due to its potency and may initially cause irritation. Hyaluronic Acid is considered to be safe for all skin types, can be used every day, and does not cause any adverse effects. Out of all clinical trials conducted to prove the efficacy of HA—not one highlights any side effects of this ingredient. Retinol, on the flip side, requires cautious use. If you are new to Retinol, it is suggested to start with low concentration and use it once a week during your nighttime routine. Moreover, to some individuals, especially the ones with acne-prone or sensitive skin, Retinol can cause adverse reactions like purging, irritation, redness and peeling. 4. Results from Retinol can take weeks or months to show, while Hyaluronic Acid increases skin hydration immediately upon application. Retinol has numerous benefits including reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, and acne scars. But, Retinol takes time to work. It requires consistent usage. The first few applications may even cause a few adverse effects. However, there is one short-term benefit you can expect. After a few applications, Retinol will exfoliate the dead skin cells and unclog your pores—preventing the formation of acne over time. Retinol vs Hyaluronic Acid: Which one is better for fine lines and wrinkles? If fine lines and wrinkles are among your skin concerns, look no further than Retinol. A 2006 study says that Retinoids, including Retinol, are the most promising agents available for the treatment of ageing and photoaging. Retinol increases collagen production in the skin and stimulates the production of new blood vessels—reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Moreover, once the Retinol molecules reach the deeper layer of your skin, they reduce/balance free radicals (A 2010 study found that free radicals damage skin cells, leading to premature ageing). But, to see results, you need to be consistent with Retinol. Experts say it can take up to 6 months before the improvements in wrinkles are apparent. Retinol vs Hyaluronic Acid: Which is more suitable for treating acne? Retinol is more effective than Hyaluronic Acid when it comes to treating acne. In fact, it is approved for treating acne. A 2021 study says Retinol's anti-inflammatory properties make it highly effective in treating acne and improving hyperpigmentation. Another reason why Retinol is considered a suitable treatment for acne is its ability to unclog pores. Clogged pores, caused by a buildup of dirt, oil, or dead skin cells, are a common skin condition. They are also the most common cause of acne. On the other hand, there are not many studies that prove the effectiveness of HA for the treatment of acne. The only relevant information available is a 2017 clinical trial that says HA can regulate sebum production, helping to prevent acne over time. Excess sebum production is a major cause of acne. But HA does not target acne directly, thus Retinol is a better option. READ: How Effective is Retinol for Treating Acne? Which one is better for treating dark circles? For treating dark circles or under-eye bags, Hyaluronic Acid is a safer option. It's gentle enough to use around the eyes, unlike Retinol cream, which is quite potent and should be avoided on sensitive areas such as around the eyes, corners of the nose, and corners of the mouth. HA will hydrate and brighten the skin under the eye—reducing the appearance of dark circles. Can you use Retinol and Hyaluronic Acid together? Yes, you can use Retinol and Hyaluronic Acid together—this combination will not cause any adverse effects. In fact, these ingredients help each other work better. A clinical trial conducted to test the efficacy of a cream containing low concentration of Retinol and Hyaluronic Acid, says that the combination significantly reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. The combination can also be used to address skin concerns like pigmentary spots, uneven skin tone, and dullness. Can Hyaluronic Acid help you avoid Retinol purge? While Hyaluronic Acid may help with dryness caused by Retinol, it cannot help with skin purging. Retinol speeds up the cell renewal process—in which your skin is basically trying to get rid of all the unwanted/dead skin cells. These cells are pushed to the surface of your skin—appearing as tiny, red bumps that can be sensitive and painful when touched. But don’t worry, this is just a phase, which will last for a few days and then your skin will turn back to normal. Also keep in mind that it does not happen to everyone. During the initial phase of using Retinol—where the purging most likely occurs—you can use a hydrating moisturiser to strengthen your skin barrier. Also make sure not to use any other harsh skincare ingredient. READ: Retinol Purge? 5 Easiest Ways To Ease It References Goulden V. Guidelines for the management of acne vulgaris in adolescents. Paediatr Drugs. 2003;5(5):301-13. doi: 10.2165/00128072-200305050-00003. PMID: 12716217. Lobo, V., Patil, A., Phatak, A., & Chandra, N. (2010). Free radicals, antioxidants and functional foods: Impact on human health. Pharmacognosy Reviews, 4(8), 118-126. Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: An overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical Interventions in Aging, 1(4), 327-348. Draelos, Z. D., Diaz, I., Namkoong, J., Wu, J., & Boyd, T. (2021). Efficacy Evaluation of a Topical Hyaluronic Acid Serum in Facial Photoaging. Dermatology and Therapy, 11(4), 1385-1394. Papakonstantinou, E., Roth, M., & Karakiulakis, G. (2012). Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-Endocrinology, 4(3), 253-258.
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