When you talk about skin healing, missing out on Niacinamide and Vitamin C would be blasphemous.
Dermatologists love these active ingredients for their efficacy when applied topically. However, there is a constant debate amongst the skin care fraternity about whether or not Vitamin C and Niacinamide should be paired.
Studies reveal that vitamin C helps in boosting collagen production, scavenging free radicals, and reducing dark spots. Whereas a research study elucidates the efficacy of niacinamide as a potent anti-inflammatory ingredient hence calming irritated skin. It has anti-aging properties and improves skin barrier function.
Derivatives of Vitamin C with Niacinamide
1. Ethyl Ascorbic Acid with Niacinamide
Reportedly, Ethyl Ascorbic Acid with Niacinamide is not a recommended combination in skin care. Why?
Different pH value of both ingredients is the real problem. Since pH is one of the most important things that affect the stability of products. Niacinamide performs the best around a neutral pH of 6-7. On the other hand, Ethyl Ascorbic Acid has a pH of less than or equal to 3. When these two ingredients are paired at the same time, they form a by-product called nicotinic acid. Nicotinic acid is an impurity that may increase the risk of purging, redness, and skin irritation.
And when used separately, both niacinamide and ethyl ascorbic acid offer many dermatological advantages for your skin. The combo targets skin problems like hyperpigmentation, blemishes, fine lines, wrinkles, and dull complexion.
You can use Ethyl Ascorbic Acid (EAA) serums in your morning skincare routine for strong antioxidant protection throughout the day and niacinamide serums at night for improved skin barrier functions and skin rejuvenation. EAA is found suitable only for normal skin types, and not sensitive skin and acne-prone skin types.
2. Sodium Ascorbyl phosphate with Niacinamide
For acne-prone skin types, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP) with Niacinamide is a power couple.
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate is a stable, water-soluble derivative of Vitamin C that does not oxidise easily. Likewise, Niacinamide is a stable compound. Additionally, the pH value of Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate lies between 7-8 which is very near to niacinamide’s pH.
So, when these ingredients are combined, a multitude of oily/acne-prone skin problems can be tackled. Their anti-inflammatory, antiaging, and sebum regulating properties accelerate the acne healing process and offer clear, smooth, and radiant skin.
3. L Ascorbic acid with Niacinamide
Pairing L Ascorbic acid with Niacinamide is not considered an effective combination and may cause adverse skin reactions.
Backed by scientific studies, both the ingredients in a single skincare formulation become unstable and lose their efficacy to show desired results.
It's best to avoid using these ingredients at the same time, make sure to wait for 25-30 minutes during each application.
4. Ascorbyl glucoside with Niacinamide
The answer is yes. In theoretical studies, teaming up Ascorbyl glucoside with Niacinamide is regarded as safe and effective.
However, there are very limited clinical trials in dermatology that support the efficacy of this combination for the skin.
In nutshell, Niacinamide and Vitamin C works wonders for your skin. Putting both ingredients in your skin care regimen can bring a wealth of skincare benefits. The easiest and most convenient option is to find a single product that consists of both ingredients. But again, it is important to understand your skin care needs before switching to any skin care product.