Not all derivatives of Vitamin C are stable and effectively penetrate into the skin, except, Ethyl Ascorbic Acid…

In this post, we will cover

Vitamin C is one of the most researched and popular ingredients in the skincare industry. 

However, not everyone knows that vitamin C has different forms with varying properties. 

Elements like the pH levels, concentration level and other associated ingredients within a product can break or enhance its benefits on different skin types. 

So it is always better to ensure that you choose the correct form of vitamin C serum for your skin type.

In this post, we will talk about different derivatives of vitamin C, how they work and which one is the best.

What are the different types of vitamin C for the skin?

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP)

SAP is a naturally occurring water-soluble form of vitamin C. It is made by combining ascorbic acid with salt and phosphate. It is the most stable form of vitamin C, meaning it does not oxidize. 

Once you apply sodium ascorbyl phosphate to your skin, it converts into ascorbic acid, the purest form of vitamin C. The conversion process makes it less active and unlikely to irritate the oily/acne-prone skin.

The significant benefits of Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate include:

• Brightening discolorations from scars and acne
• It soothes inflammation and irritation
• Reduces the visibility of acne scars by enhancing collagen production
• Protection against free radicals that may cause acne
• Even skin tone by reducing melanin production
• Antimicrobial benefits

Ethyl Ascorbic Acid (EAA) 

Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is another stable derivative of vitamin C soluble in oil and water. It is commonly used in topical formulations as an anti-ageing and antioxidant component. This derivative is mostly suitable for normal skin types. 

With the fast absorption of Ethyl Ascorbic Acid into the skin, you are assured of getting great results. More than 80% converts to pure L-ascorbic acid, making it the most effective form of vitamin C in skin brightening and enhancing collagen synthesis.

This fabulous derivative of vitamin Cis widely used in hyperpigmentation treatment products as a tyrosinase inhibitor. All these aspects make Ethyl Ascorbic Acid a true powerhouse.

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate

Your skin is made of a lipid layer keeping germs out and moisture in. Being an oily layer, it does not allow any water-based products to penetrate your skin quickly.

Now Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate (AT) is soluble in oil as it is produced by combining vitamin C with Isopalmitic acid. This enhances its ability to penetrate the skin effectively. It reduces dullness, fine lines and wrinkles, and promotes skin firmness without clogging the pores. 

L - ascorbic acid

It is the most unstable and researched form of vitamin C effective in penetrating the skin. L-ascorbic acid is water-soluble, and exposure to air and light may render vitamin C inactive. When shopping for this form of vitamin C, ensure that the holding bottles are dark, opaque and airtight to keep the content stable.

L-ascorbic acid is the best vitamin C for all skin types with a bit of adjustment to its concentration levels. It is most beneficial for people with normal and oily skin but may have adverse reactions to sensitive skin types. 

Things you should keep in mind before using vitamin C

Wear sunscreen with Vitamin C

Although vitamin C does not make your skin susceptible to sunburn, some of its forms decompose when exposed to light. It is advisable to wear vitamin C under a layer of sunscreen.

Think of it as additional security against UV light that goes past the sunscreen. Using vitamin C and sunscreen containing a minimum of SPF 50 or higher provides the best coverage against free radical damage.

Serums are a great start

The serum is the best and most common way to deliver vitamin C to the skin. It enhances the penetration into the skin and keeps vitamin C stable. The serum is the best method for delivering a high concentration of active vitamin C.

Store your vitamin C product properly

There are water-based and anhydrous types of vitamin C. While the latter is stable even when exposed to sunlight, the water-based category is more unstable and sensitive to light and air. 

As a result, they are stored in opaque and airtight bottles. A dark, cloudy colour or rancid odor are sign of oxidized vitamin C.