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Should You Use Hyaluronic Acid If You Have Oily or Acne-Prone Skin?

Hyaluronic Acid is known for hydrating the skin, improving texture, and minimising signs of photoaging. But can it address the root issues of oily skin?

Excess sebum production, clogged pores, and acne are common struggles of someone with oily skin. Can Hyaluronic Acid help with these? Find out in this blog.

In this post, we will cover

  1. Hyaluronic Acid: What is it and how it helps the skin
  2. Is Hyaluronic Acid good for oily skin?
  3. Should someone with acne-prone skin use Hyaluronic Acid?
  4. Does Hyaluronic Acid have any side effects?
  5. What are the other skincare ingredients suitable for oily or acne-prone skin?

Hyaluronic Acid: What is it and how it helps the skin

When it comes to hydrating the skin—there really isn’t any skincare ingredient that can do a better job than Hyaluronic Acid. 

It is one of the most well-known skincare ingredients in the market today—and for all the good reasons

It is typically found in skincare formulations targeting skin concerns like dryness and facial ageing.

There are 4 forms of Hyaluronic Acid available in cosmetic formulations

  1. Raw form. Has a higher molecular weight, and mostly stays on the top layer of the skin. 
  1. Hydrolyzed form. Split into smaller fragments, has a lower molecular weight. 
  1. Alkaline form, also called Sodium Hyaluronate. This one is the most effective form of Hyaluronic Acid. It has a lower molecular weight and penetrates deeper layers of the skin. Plus, it promotes the production of naturally occurring HA.
  1. Cross-linked form. Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid (HA) molecules are cross-linked to create a larger, more stable molecule.

READ - A complete guide on Hyaluronic Acid

Why you might need Hyaluronic Acid

Hyaluronic Acid, also known as Hyaluronan, is already present in our body—it is mainly found in our connective, epithelial and neural tissues.

According to a study, an individual weighing 70 kg has approximately 15g of Hyaluronan in the body.

Its prime job is to lubricate the joint and retain the essential moisture in our stratum corneum—the outermost layer of the skin.

With that comes a question—if we already have HA in our body—then what are these topical products for. 

Here’s a catch! 

As we age, Hyaluronic Acid in our body declines. Thus, skincare products containing HA can be a great addition to your skincare routine.

Hyaluronic Acid decreases skin irritation 

HA contains healing properties, which can help minimise skin irritation.

According to a study, Hyaluronic Acid controls skin inflammation, speeding up the healing process. 

Moreover, it increases blood flow to the areas where the skin barrier is compromised.

Reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles 

According to a 2012 study, hyaluronic acid moisturises the skin and improves skin elasticity, thus visibly decreasing the depth of wrinkles. 

Moreover, a serum containing HA can improve smoothness, hydration, and the appearance of fine lines, according to a 2021 study

The study was conducted on 40 females—which went on for 6 weeks—none reported skin irritation or any side effect from Hyaluronic Acid.

HA improves the penetration of other active ingredients

If you happen to use any active ingredient, Hyaluronic Acid can enhance the penetration of the active ingredient through the stratum corneum.

Basically, HA can enhance the efficacy of an active ingredient.

Is Hyaluronic Acid good for oily skin?

Hyaluronic Acid can help with one of the most underlying issues of oily skin—which is excess sebum production. 

Excess sebum is the primary cause of acne, skin inflammation, and a greasy, shiny appearance.

According to a 2017 study, Hyaluronic Acid plays a vital role in regulating sebum production. 

The study was conducted on 20 individuals with oily skin—it concluded that Hyaluronic Acid is an effective candidate in controlling sebum production. 

With that, we can say that Hyaluronic Acid is a good choice of ingredient for oily skin. It can provide hydration and prevent moisture loss. 

Moreover, the comedogenicity index of HA is 0. Meaning, it will not clog pores or cause any acne breakouts. 

Should someone with acne-prone skin use Hyaluronic Acid?

Absolutely yes!

Hyaluronic Acid does not irritate the skin at all. Plus, it can help with inflammation and redness—typical cans of worms for someone with acne-prone skin. 

However, Hyaluronic Acid is not the right choice of ingredient to target active acne. 

HA might prevent acne breakouts because it helps in regulating sebum production. 

Aside from that, Hyaluronic Acid doesn’t play a significant role in treating acne.

If you want a more targeted approach for your acne, look for skincare formulations containing Salicylic Acid, Niacinamide, or Retinol. 

Does Hyaluronic Acid have any side effects?

No, Hyaluronic Acid does not have any adverse effects, it is safe for use on all skin types, including sensitive skin. 

You can use it every day, twice a day in your AM and PM skincare routine. 

What are the other skincare ingredients suitable for oily or acne-prone skin?

Other than Hyaluronic Acid, there are various active ingredients that can help regulate sebum production and prevent and treat acne—here are they

Niacinamide. Highly effective in regulating sebum production and reducing the severity of acne.

A 2006 study proves that Niacinamide can effectively decrease sebum excretion rates.

Moreover, Niacinamide contains anti-inflammatory properties, which can reduce the severity of acne and help with facial redness and skin inflammation. 

READ - Should Niacinamide be in your skincare routine if you have oily skin?

Salicylic Acid. Effective daily approach to treat acne.

A 2012 study says Salicylic Acid, especially in cleansers, is highly suitable for treating acne. 

The study was conducted on individuals with mild to moderate acne, and each individual reported significant improvements in acne lesions.

Salicylic Acid also has anti-inflammatory properties that help soothe inflammation, itchiness, and facial redness.

Retinol. Efficacious on both non-inflammatory and inflammatory acne lesions.

Retinol helps keep your pores clear by removing dead skin cells. For oily skin, it also helps regulate excess sebum, preventing clogged pores.

READ - How Effective is Retinol for Treating Acne?

Moreover, Retinol accelerates collagen and elastin production in the skin, reducing the appearance of enlarged pores and acne scars. 

References

Papakonstantinou, E., Roth, M., & Karakiulakis, G. (2012). Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-Endocrinology, 4(3), 253-258.

Draelos, Z. D., Diaz, I., Namkoong, J., Wu, J., & Boyd, T. (2021). Efficacy Evaluation of a Topical Hyaluronic Acid Serum in Facial Photoaging. Dermatology and Therapy, 11(4), 1385-1394.

Jung YR, Hwang C, Ha JM, Choi DK, Sohn KC, Lee Y, Seo YJ, Lee YH, Kim CD, Lee JH, Im M. Hyaluronic Acid Decreases Lipid Synthesis in Sebaceous Glands. J Invest Dermatol. 2017 Jun;137(6):1215-1222. doi: 10.1016/j.jid.2017.01.017. Epub 2017 Feb 3. PMID: 28163068. 

Draelos ZD, Matsubara A, Smiles K. The effect of 2% niacinamide on facial sebum production. J Cosmet Laser Ther. 2006 Jun;8(2):96-101. doi: 10.1080/14764170600717704. PMID: 16766489.

Stern R. Hyaluronan catabolism: a new metabolic pathway. Eur J Cell Biol. 2004 Aug;83(7):317-25. doi: 10.1078/0171-9335-00392. PMID: 15503855.

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If you have oily skin, avoid these 5 skincare ingredients—use these 4 instead

worst skincare ingredients for oily skin

If you have oily skin, avoid these 5 skincare ingredients—use these 4 instead

From having to deal with undue shine on the face (that can be misunderstood for sweat) to having an orange-peel-like skin texture caused by the large pores, people with oily skin know the ordeal.  On the quest to find the best ways out of this ‘clog’, you must have tried multiple skincare products, but nothing works. And you know why? Because our dear products have a few ingredients that do not set well on oily skin. To know the ingredients typically not meant for oily skin you don’t have to go through the jargon. We have curated a list of the top ingredients that should be kept away from your skin. Trust us, your skin will thank you! What causes oily skin? Whereas an appropriate amount of sebum (produced by sebaceous glands) keeps the skin hydrated and protected, its overproduction can cause the skin to look greasy and clog the pores. The reason for over-secretion could vary anywhere from genetics to hormones, climate, diet, and even stress.  Coming to the point, let’s get into the details of the ingredients that are a curse spell for your skin: Ingredients to avoid if you have an oily skin 1. Comedogenic Oils The biggest no no! Quite commonly used household ingredients like coconut, avocado, and olive oil are high in oleic acid, a fatty acid infamously known for clogging skin pores. This in turn leads to breakouts and greasiness on the face.  With a molecular structure that can easily get stuck in the pores, highly comedogenic products are not your best friend.  2. Alcohol-based products Alcohol as an ingredient is used in two major types of products, cleansers and moisturisers.  Alcohol for the most part removes sebum (an oily content naturally produced by the skin to keep it hydrated) from your skin, but its overuse can leave the skin with no natural moisture. This can cause inflammation and irritation to the surface level, further leading to overcompensation of the lost oil. To retain the natural oils and avoid irritants, it is recommended to use alcohol-free products on sensitive skin.  3. Harsh Scrubs Exfoliation, when done right, can do wonders for oily skin, but harsh scrubs (some even containing nano-plastics) strip off the natural oils from the skin’s surface, leaving it vulnerable and causing inflammation, further resulting in breakouts and imbalance of the PH levels.  Harsh scrubs can create small tears in the skin allowing bacteria to make your face their habitat, that too rent-free. These tiny tears make it easy for the bacteria to breed and affect your skin in more ways than you think.  4. Silicones Used to fill in the texture on the skin, silicone is an ingredient in products like primers and moisturisers. Even though it makes your skin look smoother and velvety, it creates a barrier coating on the surface. It doesn’t allow other skincare (water-based) products used on top of it to absorb into your skin and also traps in the excess oil and dirt. For oily-skinned people, it is one big red flag! 5. Occlusive Ingredients Petrolatum jelly, shea butter, beeswax, and jojoba oil are occlusive components used in many sunscreens, masks, and moisturisers.  The barrier they create on the skin is supposed to protect your skin from external elements like UV rays or pollution (which it surely does), but for oily skin, it also traps the oil and water from getting out and released from your face.  Which skincare ingredients are the most suitable for oily skin? 1. Salicylic Acid  Salicylic Acid is an oil-soluble beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) known to be a good peeling agent. As it controls the excess sebum production in the skin, it is the best for exfoliation.  It also reduces dilated pores and affects Cutibacterium acnes bacteria (a bacteria that lives deep in the follicles and pores). 2. 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Dry vs Dehydrated Skin - Here Is The Actual Difference

dry-vs-dehydrated-skin-the-real-difference

Dry vs Dehydrated Skin - Here Is The Actual Difference

Dry and dehydrated skin—two different terms—are often thought of as the same. But, how can you really differentiate between the two? Both are rough to touch, feel itchy, and dull at sight. And you know what this misconception typically results in? Wrong selection of skincare products—basically running the risk of making the skin condition worse rather than better. But don’t worry, we will help you out. Ahead we’ll explain the actual difference between dry and dehydrated skin. What is dry skin?  The word ‘dry’ is used to define a skin type that produces less sebum than normal skin. Due to the lack of sebum production, dry skin naturally lacks a strong lipid barrier. Lipids are present in several layers of our skin—including the epidermis—where their primary job is to act as a protective barrier and prevent the absorption of environmental pollutants such as impurities and dirt.  Lipids also prevent sun damage and promote moisture retention.  And since dry skin has a weaker lipid barrier, the skin lacks hydration—and can appear dull or even flaky at times—depending on the severity of dryness. Confused about whether you have dry skin? Here are some signs -  People with dry skin have:  Almost impalpable pores Dull, flaky and rough skin complexion Occasional red patches Here is a small test you can do to confirm whether you have dry skin. Wash your face with a gentle cleanser. Do not apply any skincare product. After an hour, take a clean tissue and blot your t-zone (forehead and nose) and u-zone (cheeks and chin). If none of the tissues have oil stains on them—and if on top of that—your skin feels dry, rough and flaky—you have dry skin. What is dehydrated skin? Dehydrated skin is a condition caused by less dietary water intake. It is a temporary state which can be easily resolved by maintaining proper hydration levels in the body.  See it this way: dehydration usually happens when our body is unable to find essential fluids to perform all its functions.  Because of this, the body channels its remaining fluids—which include water—to the organs in order to support necessary processes, leaving the skin with less water. But, less water intake is not the only cause of dehydrated skin, it may also result from: Sunburn Fever Excessive sweating Weather Hot showers Lack of sleep What does dehydrated skin look like?  Dehydrated skin looks dry and rough and has a dull or uneven complexion.  Here are 4 signs your skin is lacking water, thus dehydrated: Your skin looks dull and lacks its natural glow. Dullness is the common cause of dehydrated skin. In this condition, the skin lacks natural moisture and appears tired and sunken.  Your skin appears dry—irrespective of your skin type. All skin types can be susceptible to dehydrated skin. In this condition, the skin lacks moisture due to less water intake. Dehydrated skin, therefore, can even affect an individual with oily skin; however, those with combination and dry skin are more likely to experience it.  Your skin feels itchy and scaly. Itching, scaliness, and roughness are the most common causes of dehydrated skin. Especially, the area near your eyes, nose, and mouth is more likely to feel itchy and tight. Fine lines on your face are now more noticeable. Dehydrated skin can hasten the appearance of fine lines. But wait—lines that you think have become prominent lately—could also be dehydrated lines. Lifestyle choices including drinking excessive amounts of alcohol and drinking less water can dehydrate the skin, resulting in dull complexion and producing wrinkle-like lines. 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Retinol VS Hyaluronic Acid: Which one is better for treating acne, dark circles, fine lines and wrinkles

Hyaluronic Acid Vs Retinol: Which One Should You Go For?

Retinol VS Hyaluronic Acid: Which one is better for treating acne, dark circles, fine lines and wrinkles

How are Retinol and Hyaluronic Acid different from each other? Retinol is widely regarded as the most effective anti-ageing topical treatment. A 2012 study highlighted Hyaluronic Acid as a key molecule in the ageing process. The study suggests that a low molecular weight variant of Hyaluronic Acid can effectively reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Thus, both Retinol and Hyaluronic Acid can be considered effective anti-ageing treatments. But is Hyaluronic Acid as potent as Retinol? Does HA possess the ability to penetrate the deeper layers of the skin and mitigate free radicals like Retinol does? No, HA works quite differently from Retinol. Let's go over the key differences between Retinol and Hyaluronic Acid to help you determine which is better suited for your specific skin concerns. 1. Hyaluronic Acid is primarily a humectant that hydrates and retains water in the skin. Retinol, a Vitamin A derivative, promotes cell renewal and boosts collagen and elastin production. A 2021 study shows that HA can immediately boost skin hydration, making the skin smooth and plump. Whereas, Retinol stimulates collagen and elastin production in the skin, enhancing blood flow. This helps Retinol counteract skin concerns like wrinkles, fine lines, and hyperpigmentation. 2. Hyaluronic Acid mostly works on the surface of your skin, whereas Retinol penetrates deeper into the skin. Hyaluronic Acid comes in 4 variants: raw form, hydrolyzed form, alkaline form, and cross-linked form.  Raw and hydrolyzed forms have high molecular weight and are unable to penetrate deeper layers of your skin. Thus, it stays on the outer layer of your skin and delivers hydration where it's required.  However, alkaline (sodium hyaluronate) and cross-linked forms have low molecular weight and can penetrate the deeper layers of skin. On the other hand, over-the-counter Retinol creams are available in various concentrations, for example, 0.1% to 2%.  Regardless of the concentration, Retinol has low molecules that go deep beneath the epidermis (outer layer of skin) to the dermis.  3. Hyaluronic Acid is suitable for all skin types and can be used daily, while Retinol, typically used at night, requires gradual introduction due to its potency and may initially cause irritation. Hyaluronic Acid is considered to be safe for all skin types, can be used every day, and does not cause any adverse effects. Out of all clinical trials conducted to prove the efficacy of HA—not one highlights any side effects of this ingredient.  Retinol, on the flip side, requires cautious use. If you are new to Retinol, it is suggested to start with low concentration and use it once a week during your nighttime routine. Moreover, to some individuals, especially the ones with acne-prone or sensitive skin, Retinol can cause adverse reactions like purging, irritation, redness and peeling. 4. Results from Retinol can take weeks or months to show, while Hyaluronic Acid increases skin hydration immediately upon application. Retinol has numerous benefits including reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, and acne scars. But, Retinol takes time to work. It requires consistent usage.  The first few applications may even cause a few adverse effects. However, there is one short-term benefit you can expect. After a few applications, Retinol will exfoliate the dead skin cells and unclog your pores—preventing the formation of acne over time. Retinol vs Hyaluronic Acid: Which one is better for fine lines and wrinkles? If fine lines and wrinkles are among your skin concerns, look no further than Retinol. A 2006 study says that Retinoids, including Retinol, are the most promising agents available for the treatment of ageing and photoaging. Retinol increases collagen production in the skin and stimulates the production of new blood vessels—reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Moreover, once the Retinol molecules reach the deeper layer of your skin, they reduce/balance free radicals (A 2010 study found that free radicals damage skin cells, leading to premature ageing). But, to see results, you need to be consistent with Retinol. Experts say it can take up to 6 months before the improvements in wrinkles are apparent. Retinol vs Hyaluronic Acid: Which is more suitable for treating acne?  Retinol is more effective than Hyaluronic Acid when it comes to treating acne. In fact, it is approved for treating acne. A 2021 study says Retinol's anti-inflammatory properties make it highly effective in treating acne and improving hyperpigmentation. Another reason why Retinol is considered a suitable treatment for acne is its ability to unclog pores. Clogged pores, caused by a buildup of dirt, oil, or dead skin cells, are a common skin condition. They are also the most common cause of acne. On the other hand, there are not many studies that prove the effectiveness of HA for the treatment of acne.  The only relevant information available is a 2017 clinical trial that says HA can regulate sebum production, helping to prevent acne over time. Excess sebum production is a major cause of acne. But HA does not target acne directly, thus Retinol is a better option. READ: How Effective is Retinol for Treating Acne? Which one is better for treating dark circles? For treating dark circles or under-eye bags, Hyaluronic Acid is a safer option.  It's gentle enough to use around the eyes, unlike Retinol cream, which is quite potent and should be avoided on sensitive areas such as around the eyes, corners of the nose, and corners of the mouth. HA will hydrate and brighten the skin under the eye—reducing the appearance of dark circles. Can you use Retinol and Hyaluronic Acid together?  Yes, you can use Retinol and Hyaluronic Acid together—this combination will not cause any adverse effects. In fact, these ingredients help each other work better.  A clinical trial conducted to test the efficacy of a cream containing low concentration of Retinol and Hyaluronic Acid, says that the combination significantly reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. The combination can also be used to address skin concerns like pigmentary spots, uneven skin tone, and dullness.  Can Hyaluronic Acid help you avoid Retinol purge?  While Hyaluronic Acid may help with dryness caused by Retinol, it cannot help with skin purging.  Retinol speeds up the cell renewal process—in which your skin is basically trying to get rid of all the unwanted/dead skin cells. These cells are pushed to the surface of your skin—appearing as tiny, red bumps that can be sensitive and painful when touched.  But don’t worry, this is just a phase, which will last for a few days and then your skin will turn back to normal. Also keep in mind that it does not happen to everyone. During the initial phase of using Retinol—where the purging most likely occurs—you can use a hydrating moisturiser to strengthen your skin barrier. Also make sure not to use any other harsh skincare ingredient. READ: Retinol Purge? 5 Easiest Ways To Ease It References Goulden V. Guidelines for the management of acne vulgaris in adolescents. Paediatr Drugs. 2003;5(5):301-13. doi: 10.2165/00128072-200305050-00003. PMID: 12716217. Lobo, V., Patil, A., Phatak, A., & Chandra, N. (2010). Free radicals, antioxidants and functional foods: Impact on human health. Pharmacognosy Reviews, 4(8), 118-126. Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: An overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical Interventions in Aging, 1(4), 327-348. Draelos, Z. D., Diaz, I., Namkoong, J., Wu, J., & Boyd, T. (2021). Efficacy Evaluation of a Topical Hyaluronic Acid Serum in Facial Photoaging. Dermatology and Therapy, 11(4), 1385-1394.  Papakonstantinou, E., Roth, M., & Karakiulakis, G. (2012). Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-Endocrinology, 4(3), 253-258.

Aayush Maggu 05. 07. 2024
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